Remembering Rana Plaza: What has really changed?
The disaster which brought attention to modern-slavery in the fashion industry to the global stage
It has been 10 years since Rana Plaza disaster in Bangladesh.
It is on the April 24, 2013, in Savar, Bangladesh, where an eight-story commercial building called Rana Plaza collapsed, resulting in the deaths of 1,135 people and injuring more than 2,500.
The building housed several garment factories, and workers had been forced to work in unsafe conditions with no emergency exits, no fire-fighting equipment, and no adequate safety training.
The disaster was caused by a combination of factors, including the building's illegal construction, poor infrastructure, and inadequate safety measures. The building was constructed without proper permits, and its design did not comply with building codes and standards. The use of substandard construction materials and poor construction practices contributed to the building's structural weaknesses. Moreover, the building's owner and management ignored warnings about the building's structural problems and ordered workers to continue working despite visible cracks in the walls.
For the survivors, many of whom were young women who worked in the garment factories, the impact was severe. They not only had to deal with physical injuries and psychological trauma, but many of them lost their potential to earn a livelihood, left with permanent disabilities that made it impossible for them to work again.
The families of the victims faced immense hardship, losing their loved ones and the income they provided. Many of them were left without a source of income and struggled to make ends meet. They also had to bear the cost of medical treatment for those who were injured.
At that time Rana Plaza produced garments for several big retailers. Some of the brands that were being produced in the factories:
Primark (UK), Benetton (Italy), Bonmarché (UK), The Children's Place (USA), Joe Fresh (Canada), Mango (Spain), Matalan (UK), C&A (Belgium), KiK (Germany), Walmart (USA).
These were not the only brands producing in Rana Plaza, many other companies may have had direct or indirect ties to the factories there at the time of the disaster. The disaster highlighted the complex and opaque supply chains of the global fashion industry, and raised awareness of the need for greater transparency and accountability.
Taking account of what has changed and what is still left to be achieved
Since the Rana Plaza disaster in 2013, there has been increased awareness and advocacy around labor rights and safety in the global garment industry. Some improvements that have been made for garment workers in emerging markets include:
Increase in minimum wages: Several countries, including Bangladesh, Cambodia, and Myanmar, have raised their minimum wage for garment workers in recent years.
Improvements in labor standards: Some global brands and retailers have implemented stricter labor standards in their supply chains, and there has been greater attention and monitoring of labor practices by organisations such as the Fair Labor Association and the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh.
Worker empowerment: There has been an increase in worker empowerment initiatives, such as worker education and training programs, unionisation efforts, and the establishment of worker-led organisations.
Independent international organisations: The Clean Clothes Campaign, a global network of labor rights organisations, launched a campaign called "Make It Right" to demand compensation for the victims and improvements in worker safety.
Fashion Revolution, a global movement that aims to make the fashion industry more sustainable and ethical, launched a social media campaign called "Who Made My Clothes?" to raise awareness about the people who make our clothes and to encourage greater transparency and accountability in the industry.
Despite these improvements, garment workers in emerging markets still face many challenges.
How much do garment workers in the emerging markets make today?
Garment workers in developing countries still earn very low wages, often below poverty-level income. According to a report by the Asia Floor Wage Alliance, some of the countries with the lowest wages for garment workers include:
Bangladesh: The minimum wage for garment workers in Bangladesh is 8,000 taka (about $94) per month, which is one of the lowest in the world. However, the government recently increased the minimum wage to 10,000 taka (about $118) per month.
Cambodia: The minimum wage for garment workers in Cambodia is $190 per month, which is slightly higher than the minimum wage in Bangladesh. However, many workers earn less than the minimum wage due to unpaid overtime and other labor rights violations.
Myanmar: The minimum wage for garment workers in Myanmar is 4,800 kyats (about $3.50) per day, which is one of the lowest in the world.
Pakistan: The minimum wage for garment workers in Pakistan varies by province, but is generally around 17,500 Pakistani rupees (about $110) per month.
Ethiopia: The minimum wage for garment workers in Ethiopia is 1,200 Ethiopian birr (about $30) per month, which is one of the lowest in Africa.
The wages for garment workers in India vary depending on the region, company, and level of experience. The Indian government sets a minimum wage for garment workers, which varies by state and is revised every few years. However, in many cases, workers earn less than the minimum wage due to unpaid overtime, lack of benefits, and other labor rights violations.
As of today, the minimum wage for garment workers in some Indian states is as follows:
Tamil Nadu: The minimum wage for garment workers in Tamil Nadu ranges from Rs. 5,926 ($80) to Rs. 7,041 ($95) per month, depending on the level of skill and experience.
Karnataka: The minimum wage for garment workers in Karnataka ranges from Rs. 8,000 ($108) to Rs. 9,500 ($128) per month, depending on the level of skill and experience.
Delhi: The minimum wage for garment workers in Delhi is Rs. 15,492 ($210) per month for unskilled workers and Rs. 17,069 ($231) per month for skilled workers.
Maharashtra: The minimum wage for garment workers in Maharashtra ranges from Rs. 5,642 ($76) to Rs. 8,036 ($109) per month, depending on the level of skill and experience.
It's important to note that these numbers represent the legal minimum wage in each country, and that many garment workers earn less than this due to unpaid overtime, lack of benefits, and other labor rights violations.
The Asia Floor Wage Alliance estimates that a living wage, which would allow workers to meet their basic needs, is two to three times higher than the minimum wage in these countries.